Scotland Day Four: National Museum and Spamalot

We were delighted to learn that our hotel buffet breakfast comes with a cat. She's a long-haired beauty named Mary, who has shown up at the window just above the buffet every day for years. Today she managed to sneak in through the window, hop onto the buffet table, and then to the floor. We all enjoyed petting her for a while, then the Spanish waiter escorted her "afuera" (outside).

We walked to the National Museum of Scotland in the late morning, and spent all day there. We covered the geological history of Scotland (fascinating!), the Galloway Hoard, Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites, an old loom, an old steam engine, Roman pottery, enormous swords, a 1599 rifle, beautiful carved wood from St. Giles church, Viking silver, and much more.

Dinner was to be at a tapas restaurant that features haggis arepas, but they were unexpectedly closed. Instead, we chose a little pub across the street from King's Theatre, a historic and beautiful theatre that opened its doors in 1906. And that's where we saw the musical Spamalot, which was absolutely wonderful! We loved the actors, the music, the voices -- really the whole thing was just a delight. And we were fortunate to have seats in the seventh row. Fantastic seats and a wonderful evening.

Edited to add that the next morning, we read that some fellow had been stabbed in a gang-related attack right outside the theatre the night before we went. Glad we didn't know that, because at the time, we felt quite safe walking there and back!

Scotland Day Three: Melrose Abbey, Edinburgh Castle

After an elegant and delicious breakfast at our B&B, we headed out to Melrose to see another abbey from the 12th century. This one was founded in 1136 by Cistercian monks, built in the Gothic style, in the form of a St. John's cross.

A lead container believed by some to contain the heart of Robert The Bruce was found in 1921 below the Chapter House site. The abbey is also known for its many gargoyles and other ornate figures.

After Melrose, we visited Fred's cousin Morag. Unfortunately, she was ill and couldn't receive us. So we had a brief chat at the door, then left for Edinburgh. Once we were checked in and settled, we set out on foot for Edinburgh Castle.

St. Margaret's Chapel from the outside

We started out with a little guided tour, so we would know what areas we wanted to see in depth. We saw the Stone of Destiny and the Crown Jewels (no photos allowed), and the wonderful Scottish National War Memorial, which is a solemn and beautiful building that houses books containing the names of those who fought and died for Scotland in any wars. Fred looked in the book for the Gordon Highlanders and found his relative's name.

St. Margaret's Chapel -- the oldest building on the castle site -- was beautiful inside, with delicate stained glass windows (added in the 1920s) and a small altar.  It dates to the reign of King David I (1124-1153), who built it as a private chapel for the family and dedicated it to his mother, Saint Margaret of Scotland, who died in the castle in 1093. The chapel is still used for religious ceremonies, such as weddings.

Next, we walked through the prisons of war and the National War Museum. It was a super interesting visit!

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Theatre Royal Bar and had some dinner. Keeping my promise to have haggis every day, I ordered delicious spheres of haggis stuffed with camembert. Crispy on the outside, molten on the inside, and so delicately flavoured -- delectable!!!

Here are three stained glass windows from the St. Margaret's Chapel. They were added some time in the 1920s.

Scotland Day Two: Kelso

Fred with Cousin Ken and his lovely wife Pat, outside their home in Kelso

We started the day with a delicious full Scottish breakfast at our B&B in Ayr, then set out for Kelso along narrow, winding roads. The weather today is just wonderful (did I mention that it rained yesterday?), and the scenery on the drive was beautiful.

In Kelso, we visited Fred's cousin Ken and his wife Pat. They're lovely, and we enjoyed their company very much. It was only going to be a brief visit for tea, but their schedule had opened up, and we spent the afternoon together, seeing the local sights and enjoying the sunshine.

The Kelsae Stane

First, Ken and Pat treated us to a tasty lunch in Kelso, and showed us the cobblestone town square, and the Kelsae Stane -- a giant cobblestone-shaped piece of public art. The actual stone is a 33-tonne piece of basalt that came from India. Place names were hand-written by local people, then engraved on the stone. The hand-written place names were provided by people of all ages, ranging from someone who had only just started writing, to a 101-year-old.

The Kelsae Stane was carved by local sculptor Jake Harvey, Emeritus Professor of sculpture at Edinburgh College of Art, and the piece was unveiled in 2014.

After lunch, we drove to the Roxburgh Cemetery to see the headstone of Fred's mother's great-grandparents, Charles and Marion Hendry. Charles was the stationmaster at Roxburgh Station for many years. Beside that headstone was another for Charles's daughter Annie Moonlight Dagg and her husband Thomas Dagg, who was the stationmaster at nearby Maxton.

Next, we visited Jedburgh Abbey, a ruined Augustinian abbey that was founded in the 1100s and built over a period of 120 years. It's a mix of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles, and it's huge.

Ken pointed out Jedburgh Castle and Jail, but we didn't stop. As well, we drove past the old station house, but the trees had grown up since Fred last saw it, and we weren't able to get a peek.

After saying our goodbyes, we checked in to the Duncan House B&B. We were shown to a lovely little room that would have been perfectly adequate, but then our host Kate decided to upgrade us to a larger space. And what a space! Canopy bed, enormous armoire, two big windows overlooking the River Teviot (and a telescope on a tripod to help us enjoy the view), and one looking out towards the 180-foot spire of the gothic Kelso North Parish Church, which was built in 1866, and probably still has that new church smell.

River Teviot, seen from our window at Duncan House B&B

Scotland: Day One in Ayr

Brig o' Doon

We arrived in Glasgow this morning, sleep deprived and hungry, and drove to Ayr right away.

In Ayr, we stopped for tea and scones (of course), then visited the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, which includes the cottage where he was born, a 70-foot-high nine-pillared monument, gardens (yes, we stopped and smelled the roses), the 15th Century cobblestone Brig o' Doon, the Poet's Path walkway, Alloway Auld Kirk, and the museum.

It was interesting to walk through the cottage, and imagine how life there influenced Burns. For example, an aunt lived with the family, and she would tell him fanciful stories of witches and spirits, no doubt laying the groundwork for his epic poem Tam o' Shanter.

The Poet's Path walkway features a number of sculptures -- notably a huge version of Burns's "wee tim'rous beastie" and a stone haggis. 

Fred and I walked on Brig o' Doon, the famous bridge that provided the setting for Tam o' Shanter, one of Burns's most famous works. The narrow, arched footbridge is such an iconic landmark that it even features on £5 Scottish notes.

The museum had manuscripts, art, and lots of artefacts. One of the treasures is the "Kilmarnock Edition" of Poems, Chiefly in the Scottish Dialect, published on July 31, 1786 . It was the first volume of poetry and on to be written by the man who was later to become Scotland's National Bard. Another treasure was a chair that was made from wood taken from the Kilmarnock printing press, which produced the treasured volume.

Our Bed & Breakfast "Bythesea" is charming, and very comfortable. We weren't sure what to expect from Scotland, in terms of accommodations. But if this is any indication, we will be very pleased indeed. I'm already looking forward to the full Scottish breakfast tomorrow...

Kilmarnock Edition

Chair made from Kilmarnock printing press wood

Robert Burns (Jan. 25, 1759 - July 1796)