Achill Island

We had a fabulous day that began with a huge breakfast at our B&B. Fruit, yogurt, cereal, a hot breakfast of egg, black and white pudding, sausage, grilled tomato and mushrooms, toast, and the best soda bread I’ve had in Ireland (and we’ve eaten it every day).

When I complimented our host Margaret on it, she gave me her recipe. The first two ingredients are Odlum flours! How nice to know that she considers my family’s flour to be the best you can buy! I’m so delighted to have the recipe, and can’t wait to make it at home.

We dropped clothes off at the laundry, which is located just paces from the door, then set out for Achill Island, Ireland’s largest island. It’s almost not an island at all, as it’s connected to the mainland by a short bridge — maybe 250 metres long.

The drive around the island has plenty of viewpoints, and our first stops were overlooking the wild Atlantic Ocean — waves crashing over the rocks below us. Absolutely magnificent! I couldn’t stop taking photos!

A little further along (and after some crazy switchbacks in the road), we hit a long sandy beach, which we walked on for some time. 

I loved seeing how it was decorated with rocks of various sizes and colours. It seemed to me to be artwork that must change daily with the tide. I took photos but didn’t move any of the stones. Who am I to interfere with such a masterpiece?

After these wild beaches, we found calm beaches on the other side of the island — long stretches of lovely sand.

We continued around the island until we came to the abandoned village on the southern slopes of Slievemore Mountain. 

Some 80 to 100 ruined stone cottages occupy a mile-long stretch of road. The village has been uninhabited since the mid 1800s. Settlement in this area dates back to at least early Medieval times, but archaeologists have found artefacts and megalithic tombs dating from the Neolithic period, some 5,000 years ago. An amazing, enigmatic place.

After exploring the abandoned village, we headed back to Westport Harbour, where we had tea and cake. I was pleased to see the same server who served me yesterday, because I was able to greet her like a local: “Are ye all right?” She said it to me yesterday and had to explain that it’s the local greeting — I thought maybe I was looking pale or something.

Later, we walked down to the town and shared a bite to eat. A fine end to a spectacular day.